Next stop was Thar Desert Camp, fittingly situated on the edge of the Thar desert. The large hotel-room-cum-tent was a welcome escape from the hot, ramshackle rooms in the guesthouse. An hour or so after arriving we were called to the front of house where a camel waited, complaining half-heartedly about his lot to anybody who would listen. We both got on top, and began plodding absent-mindedly towards the setting sun, led by a 17-year old boy called (I think) Rajish. He was fantastic company, and Liv managed to stand us in good stead from the off by asking him his name in Hindi. In return, he told us about his work and his village, and cracked jokes about all of the unforeseen extra-charges we would incur on the ride (a charge for him to lead us, a charge for him to take a photo of us, a charge to walk us…

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